Fabric MaNiPuLaTiOn

Sometimes... Manipulation can be good!Fabric Manipulation as a technique is a fantastic tool that can be used as a manifestation of architectural and 3D nature of the design.Be it the weave of the cloth or use of unconventional appliques, embellishments, panelling of different fabrics, the world of fabric manipulation is fascinating and with endless possibilities to bring imagination into design reality.There are certain fabrics that are used in particular context by the designers. Best example is Tulle(fabric that appears fragile and ethereal but is actually strong fabric that holds its shape), that is used generally to manifest elegance and luxury. So when designers subvert these connotations and use Tulle to depict punk and street-style culture, it becomes fabric manipulation.Moving to another of my favourite technique, is panelling with definition and fringing. Pleating, folding and rolling are simple yet effective ways of manipulation and voluminization.Fabric manipulation is endless, the results are different and dimensional, depending on how the designer uses the techniques to achieve interesting and varied architectural, geometrical or textural character.  And then there is sculptural fashion where 2D gives into architectural 3D, that  can be inspired by a monument or a famous figure or an art piece on its own.I am specially intrigued by weaves that can be used as the manipulation of natural fabrics like cotton, wool or silk. The overall effect is organic, earthy and rustic. Cotton weaves like dobby are diverse and worth a mention.Dobby is a woven fabric produced on the dobby loom, characterised by small geometric patterns and extra texture in the cloth. The warp and weft threads may be the same colour or different. Satin threads are particularly effective in this kind of weave as their texture will highlight the pattern.Another great weave is Waffle weave. Its characteristic recessed squares make this cotton fabric look just like the popular breakfast food it’s named after. Although it can’t be eaten, it can keep you warm which is why it’s a staple in winter clothing.A cotton called or Khadi khaddar is handspun, hand-woven natural fibre from Pakistan, India, and Bangladesh mainly made out of cotton. The cloth is usually woven from cotton and may also include silk, or wool, which are all spun into yarn on a spinning wheel called a charkha.Silk on the other hand is luxurious and according to the different quantities of silk in the weave, it results in different material like Tabby silk, satin or crepe. Wool is another natural fabric which can produce a lot of variations depending on the weave and if it is mixed with other materials like acrylic or not. And that makes knitwear another story in itself!